2004 Barolo Cerequio Tasting at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse – Houston

Posted on March 13, 2009 by jheck

Paul and I were recently invited to a 2004 Barolo tasting hosted at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle restaurant in Houston, TX http://www.delfriscos.com/. The tasting event was sponsored by Kobrand Corporation http://www.kobrandwine.comand Stefano Chiarlo of Michele Chiarlo Winery http://www.chiarlo.it/. Michele Chiarlo was founded in 1956 by the sole and present owners, Michele and Giuseppina Chiarlo. Son of over seven generations of esteemed wine growers, Michele Chiarlo is today one of the most respected producers of the fine wines of Piedmont viticultural industry. The family wine-making tradition has currently been passed to Michele’s son, oenologist Stefano Chiarlo who has been making of his own since 1956.
The tasting event started off with Stefano Chiarlo explaining his families philosophy of producing wine whose characteristics faithfully reflect the terrior, varietal, and not the winemaker. As I listened to Stefano Chiarlo you could hear the passion in his voice for his family and their wine. All four of the wines that we tasted were poured blind and all were from the 2004 vintage. I did not take detailed notes as I was enjoying listening to Stefano as much as I was the wine, but here are the brief notes. Cerequio is an historic vineyard recognized as one of Barolo’s finest cru. The wines in order poured from 1-4 are listed below.

1. Boroli Barolo, Cerequio 2004

Note: Aged 24 months in barriques, and another 18 months in the bottle. Runs around $80.00 dollars a bottle

On the nose cherry, cranberry, dark dried prune, cola, and graham cracker, with a nice hint of oak. Full body, well integrated tannins and nice balance. Wine Advocate gave it a 91. Rating: 91 JH

2. Michele Chiarlo Barolo, Cerequio 2004

Note: Aged 24 months in French oak with some being new and some second-passage. It is aged in the bottle another 18 months. Runs around $105.00 a bottle.

Initially the nose was closed and tight, but as the tasting progressed the wine began to unfold and was changing in my glass until I finished the last of it. Deep garnet color in the stem. On the nose dark dusty fruit of cherry, plum, followed by mint with hint of eucalyptus, pencil lead, and a hint of tar with a nice minerality. The body is full and the tannins are velvety smooth. The wine shows great balance and has a pleasant finish. I think it will improve for the next few years and drink well for the next 10. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave this wine a 90, and WS a 90. Rating: 91 JH

3. Gaja Langhe, Conteisa 2004

Note: 8% Barbera, 12 months in barriques, 12 months in larger oak casks, with additional time in the bottle. Bottle ranges from $234.00 to $307.00 dollars

Initially tight and slow to open. Nice ruby color in the stem. Bright nose of macerated cherries, plum , licorice, spice, leather, tar with a nice earthy minerality. This medium bodied wine shows great acidity with nice integrated tannins, and a pleasant long finish. Robert Parker gave this wine a 94. Rating: 94 JH

4. Roberto Voerzio Barolo, Cerequio 2004

Notes: Aged in a combination of 1/3 new and 2/3 used French oak barriques for 2 years. and is refined for 1 year before being cellared for one additional year in bottle. Only 515 cases produced. Bottle price is up to $275.00 a bottle.

A little tight on the nose as well at the beginning but opened more with time. On the nose plum, blackberry, and mint followed by spicy oak and a great earthy minerality. The finish is pleasantly long. The velvety tannins in this wine work very well with bold cheese and beef. Needs several more years in the bottle to reach it fullest. Robert Parker gave this wine a 97, WS gave it a 93, and ST gave it a 92. Rating: 93 JH

Stefano Chiarlo was generous enough to bring two of his Barolo Cerequio from the 1997, and 2001 vintages for us to see how their wines age well. Booth of these wines showed the complexities of quality wine with additional time in the bottle. The 2001 was the star of the entire show for me, and will be in my cellar shortly.